The wastes that must never be discharged to the sanitary sewer in any concentration should be collected and managed as hazardous waste. This list contains examples of specific chemicals and does not include all chemicals that are forbidden from sewer disposal. For more information on whether a chemical not listed below can be discharged to the sewer, refer to the detailed sections in this guide or contact OCRS.
Enzyme-based drain cleaning solutions contain bacteria culture or concentrated enzymes that break down organic buildup in your plumbing system. These natural enzymes are the perfect solution to a clogged kitchen and are an eco-friendly way to clean pipes, drains, and prevent clogs. Enzyme drain cleaners work by eating through organic buildup and can prevent clogs from forming. Chemicals that can be safely disposed of down the drain include biological compounds and cellular constituents such as proteins, nucleic acids, carbohydrates, sugars, amino acids, and amines.
Aqueous chemical solutions can be disposed of down the sink provided they are dilute and below relevant hazardous waste threshold levels. Enzymes coat the lining of waste so solids glide through the waste system but do not encourage users to dump grease, hair, and other debris. Enzymatic drain cleaners are safe on plumbing, including septic systems, and do not have caustic chemicals, making them more conducive and better for the environment.
When these chemicals are flushed down the drain, they can pollute local waterways and harm aquatic life. Enzymatic cleaners are much safer for pipes and drains, and it is important to wait for the enzymes to work before checking the drain after a few hours to see if the clog has been removed. Most of these treatments are illegal in Canada and possibly in parts of the United States.
| Article | Description | Site |
|---|---|---|
| Enzyme disposal | In addition, powdered enzymes should be dissolved in water and subsequently discharged into the sewage system. It is imperative to utilize personal protective equipment, specifically a mask, and to adhere to the prescribed methodology. | community.preproom.org |
| Should you use drain cleaners? I recently had a sink clog. … | The chemical reaction produces heat, which has the potential to compromise the structural integrity of plastic drain components. The chemicals have the potential to corrode and damage metallic drain components. | www.quora.com |
| Enzyme Drain Cleaner | Enzymes are used to coat the interior surface of waste management systems, facilitating the smooth passage of solid matter through the system. However, they do not encourage the disposal of grease, hair, or other debris. Best wishes for success in your endeavors. | www.plbg.com |
📹 How to Unclog Any Drain | Ask This Old House
In this video, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey shows us every common household drain, and how …
How can enzymes be destroyed?
- Enzymes are mostly proteins that catalyze various biochemical reactions. The catalytic reaction occurs through a specific region (active site) where the substrate bind.
- Enzymes show the highest activity at a specific temperature called ‘optimum temperature’.
- High heat destroys enzymes. Enzymes are protein molecules that get denatured at high temperatures.
- High heat breaks hydrogen and ionic bonds leading to disruption in enzyme shape. The enzyme loses its activity and can no longer bind to the substrate.
- Certain enzymes synthesized by bacteria and archaea that grow exposed to high temperatures are thermostable. They are active even at temperatures above 80°C and are called hyper thermophilic enzymes. For example- thermophilic lipase is active at a high temperature.
Are enzyme cleaners safe for the environment?
2. Environmentally friendly. According to Parveen Garg, manager at Ola Clean, enzyme cleaners are typically formulated with biodegradable ingredients and are non-toxic, making them safer for both your family and the environment. They are a greener alternative to harsh chemicals commonly found in traditional cleaning products.
Different plant enzymes accomplish different things. Protease enzymes are great at breaking down protein-based stains like food residues. Amylase enzymes specialize in digesting carbohydrates, so they’re effective against starches found in things like pasta or cereal. Lipase enzymes focus on fats and oils, making them excellent for greasy stains in the kitchen.
Unlike acidic solutions inclusive of vinegar or bleach, which crumble waste, enzyme cleaners function via penetrating cracks, crevices, and fibers to take away stains and odors without the usage of harsh detergents or caustic chemical compounds.
Puracy Natural Stain Remover from Amazon, as an example, makes use of six plant-based total enzymes to remove smudges, spots, and imperfections from water-safe substances. It is secure for rugs, sofas, and bedding because it does not bleach, fade colors, or smash materials.
Does vinegar destroy enzymes?
Ezymes need a specific pH level to function. If the levek of pH is to low or too high then it can not do it job. Vinegar is a very acidic solution which means it would destroy the pH.
Do enzymes break down waste?
Contrary to popular belief, enzymes are not alive. They are produced by live bacteria and pave the way for it to work. Enzymes operate as helpful tools that catalyze (speed up) chemical reactions between bacteria and soils, making the bacteria more efficient. Enzymes work to break down complex waste particles into smaller pieces that bacteria can more easily consume. These smaller particles—organic wastes, urine, grease, stains—become “food” for bacteria to digest and break down into two basic compounds—carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O).
Typical enzymes can be categorized into four main groups, based on the types of soils they react with.
- Proteases break down protein-based soils including blood, urine, food, feces, wine and other beverages.
- Lipases break down fat molecules like oils and grease.
- Amylases break down starch molecules like eggs, sugars, sauces, ice cream, gravy.
- Cellulases are used to soften fabric and restore color to fibers made up of cellulose material. They also remove particulate soil and reduce fabric graying and pilling.
Are enzyme cleaners safe to breathe?
Abstract. Enzymes used in cleaning products have an excellent safety profile, with little ability to cause adverse responses in humans. For acute toxicity, genotoxicity, sub-acute and repeated dose toxicity, enzymes are unremarkable. Reproductive toxicity and carcinogenicity are also not endpoints of concern.
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Do enzyme sticks work in drains?
The Ecozone Drain Sticks are a new innovation in effective drain maintenance. The sticks use powerful natural bacteria and enzymes to break down almost anything (such as soap scum and other organic matter) that gets stuck in the plughole and pipes causing blockages and bad smells. Actively working to prevent obstructions from occurring, these clever sticks can help to protect your drains all year round!
- Breaks down grease, fat and food that accumulates daily in your drains
- Keeps your drains free flowing, fresh and odour-free
- Each packet of drain sticks contains 12 sticks for monthly use over 1 year
- How to use
- Ingredients
- Recycling
- Video
- Info Sheets
Are enzymes safe for drains?
In short, yes. One of the best features of enzymatic cleaners is that they are much safer for your pipes and drains. Since they do not contain corrosive chemicals, they will not deform or strip your pipes. Instead, Enzymatic cleaners rely on biological reactions to break up sludge and clear drain blockages.
Additionally, enzymatic cleaners can actually help your sewer system’s biome. Your septic tank is home to several bacteria that break down waste products. Enzymatic cleaners can replenish and fortify these bacterial colonies, which keeps your septic system in good condition for longer.
Lastly, enzymatic cleaners are not as harmful to humans as chemical cleaners. Bacteria cultures in enzymatic cleaners can still cause irritation if they make contact with the skin. But they will not cause chemical burns or produce harmful fumes when mixed with other cleaners.
Are enzymes environmentally friendly?
Produced from renewable resources and readily biodegradable, enzymes represent one of the leading “Green Chemistry” technologies that drive sustainable solutions in consumer products and industrial processes.
What happens if you leave drain cleaner in the drain too long?
1. Corrosion. When Drano is left in the drain for too long, it can cause corrosion of the pipes. The chemicals in the product are designed to break own the clog, but if left for too long, they can start to break down the pipes themselves. This can lead to cracks and leaks in the pipes, leading to various issues, including water damage and flooding.
IF YOU NOTICE ANY OF THESE SIGNS, YOU SHOULD NOT HESITATE TO SEEK EMERGENCY PLUMBING SERVICES FROM A PROFESSIONAL.
2. Damage to Plumbing Fixtures. In addition to the pipes, leaving Drano in the drain for too long can damage the plumbing fixtures. This includes the sink, shower, bathtub, and other plumbing fixtures connected to the drain. These fixtures can become corroded and discolored and can start to show signs of wear and tear. In extreme cases, the fixtures may need to be replaced entirely.
How are enzymes disposed of?
Hi Cricketfool. Your powdered enzymes, while out of date, may still retain their original activity if stored under the correct conditions. Apart from that, powdered enzymes should be dissolved in water and disposed of in the sewage system. Remember to wear a mask and perform the manipulations in a fume cupboard to avoid sensitisation to yourself and others. Enjoy your Bank Holiday.
How long to let enzyme cleaner sit in the drain?
Keep in mind that it may take a little while if the clog is severe. The one drawback of enzyme drain cleaners compared to caustic drain cleaners is the fact that they don’t eat away organic material and carbon dioxide quite as quickly. On average, it takes between 8-24 hours for enzyme drain cleaners to clear a clogged drain. This is another reason why enzyme drain cleaners are best used for drain maintenance in a commercial setting.
Our Foaming Drain Line Service is especially popular with restaurants, bars, and other food establishments that use their drainage system heavily and therefore deal with clogging issues on a regular basis. We also provide this service to many gyms, healthcare facilities, schools, and other commercial establishments to keep their drains flowing freely and rid them of foul odors.
Enviro-Master’s Drain Treatment Service with Enzyme Bio-Active Foam. At Enviro-Master Services, we offer a weekly Foaming Drain Line Service that is guaranteed to prevent clogged drains and the many issues that they create for commercial building owners. Each week, our certified Health and Safety Technicians will inject a high-quality biodegradable formula into every drain and down every drain line in your building. By keeping your drains clear of buildup using natural, organic solutions, we are able to provide benefits such as:
📹 AmazonCommercial Drain Enzyme Review
AmazonCommercial Drain Enzyme Review ▻ Amazon Shop Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XL3C6FR?tag=rv0b1-20 …
I worked for a company with 800 vacation rentals. I got a call every other day about a clogged toilet. The guests would say it’s no use, they’d already plunged it. Well, they should have done it like Richard at 1:02 because that’s the right way. Actually, don’t pull it that hard unless you like poop in your face. No more than two or three “pulls”, not pushes, and the clog is gone. And clogged tub? It’s hair. It’s always hair. It’s never anything but hair. Unscrew the popup or pull out the tub drain linkage. Then use needle nose pliers. As I would tell folks, “Look, I pulled out the entire cat.” Same for bathroom sinks. It’s always hair. Unscrew the popup lever under the sink with a pair of website locks, pull out the stopper, needle nose pliers down the drain and pull out that fur ball. Good to go.
All great advice. As a municipal maintenance tech ive used all of these options plus a couple more. One thing to note about the rubber bladders is they work well but make sure that no chemicals/ acids have been tried first. The rubber and acid do NOT mix. The acid can cause the rubber bladder to deteriorate and burst…often while being used under pressure. Not fun!
The part where you block the overflow on the sink had not occurred to me since it’s years between drain clogs… and frankly, was half asleep when attempting this. I already spent an hour trying to do it with a wire to no avail. Tried boiling hot water. Nada. I thought I’d try a plunger but it was coming out the overflow and didn’t think to block it. That was the ticket: plunger with emphasis on the pulling up, not the pushing down…and wrapped up tight paper towels to block the overflow. What a clogged drain… but back to free flowing now. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for the caution given about chemical drain solutions. It is often the go to solution of a home owner. The danger to the repairman is real. I was on the receiving end of a caustic flood once a long run drain was cleared. I had no way to get clear of the flow on a ladder and ended up with chemical burns everywhere it touched.
Man i thought they upped a old article but no ! i need to get out the archive and watch them side by side lol . Pretty sure was article was right after Kevin O’Connor got help taking down old wallpaper in his old house then became the new host next season. I love these guys so much years and years helping people
I learned about a wet vac a long time ago. Plug up overflows in sink and other nearby sinks or tubs with wet rags, fill with water, place end of vacuum hose over drain, open sink drain, turn on vac. You will be surprised at all the nasty deposits that come out of the drain. I have also sucked out things from drains without drain guards, such as toy cars and plastic grapes. You can repeat if need be. May as well do nearby drains while you have your tools out.
The reason plumbers use a cross, as you first described in a double lavatory situation, instead of using the double wye alternative you described is, with a cross, both lavatories are vented out of the top of the cross. When you use a double wye, the lavatories are no longer vented since you have “jumped/broken the vent”. If a plumber who knows the codes and what they are doing was to use a double wye, each arm coming from the trap to the double wye would have to be individually vented between the trap and the double wye. Whenever I snake a double lavatory or a back-to-back fixture/drain, I always use a drop head on my cable (not a wire) so the head will drop down into the vertical drain/stack instead of crossing over and into the drain of the fixture I am not snaking.
There are many homes where the main sewer line is buried beneath a concrete slab, so NO CLEANOUTs at each 90 degree bend. I have a stubborn kitchen sink clog which affects ONLY that fixture. The other 7 drains in the house work perfectly. After removing the trap, when I run the snake in, I don’t know if the snake goes DOWN to the main sewer pipe, or UP the vent pipe. Looks like I’m going to need to run a snake straight down the vent from up on the roof. Writing this helped me think through my problem. It won’t be fun, but tomorrow I’m heading up the ladder!
Thank you for this article. I used to watch This Old House with my mom and dad, I learned a lot from the show. This was when Bob Vila was hosting in the 80’s. I am glad there are still articles to learn from. I will be attempting to clear the bathroom dint tomorrow. It is so bad it’s driving me insane. I don’t want to try chemicals again.
You guys are great. Thank you for your time. I am a self taught Jack of all trades in many of the disciplines I have acquired. I was impressed, I knew all the mechanics of every clogged drain you showed. However, I never really acquired the theory of the processes. A lot of it is logical in the practices. Thanks for the theory. Now in your article you showed the part that you brought from home. the one with the spiral on the end that operates the bathtub drain. I have exactly the same one. However, the spiral end that traps hair. How does that Mechanically work when it corresponds to the directional lever it attaches to or what does it actually do? Cant figure that one out ??????? Thank you in advance Semper Fi
I just finished building the handrail on my deck youtube.com/post/UgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z and used this great little router to clean up the top rail before the final sanding and stain. It was light weight but packed lots of power. Either size battery didn’t seem to make it top heavy and I’m a 64 yr old women so I really appreciated how easy it was to use…………………. CORDLESS only way to go !!
Thanks for the great article, I just ran into an issue with a bathroom sink that would drain very slow; I placed a snake about 5 ft to clear the clog and nothing happened. It looks like the drain in this house is made of galvanized pipe and corrosion has accumulated with the many years and choked the the drain passage. Of course now the snake doesn’t turn down so I guess I have to dismantle the trap and guide it into position. Note: this issue is on the 2nd floor, so clearing the clog may clog the 1st floor, I suggest to run the the water on the 1st floor bathroom sink so it can continue removing the clog. It’s never easy! Peace
4:00 Bingo, this is my problem, old Apartment Building, my kitchen line meets very likely an old T which my bathroom sink line meets also, and grease buildup just overflows BOTH my kitchen and bathroom sinks, together, every 4 months. I snake it both ways, until yucky grease is loosened up, and carry on for a few months. I can’t see the in wall exact plumbing, but an old T likely or something else, used in this 70 year old apartment building, in the walls, can’t get to without opening the wall. But thanks, your 4:00 problem is similar I think to mine. Patience, snake auger fiddling, is what works for me. Am going to run water my next snaking of my dual lines which get blocked, as that’s the thing I’ve not been doing. So thankyou very much!
I had a problem tub drain for many years. Reluctant to spend the $, I bought the Bauer chordless power drain cleaner at Harbor Freight and a 3 amp battery. That thing is worth every penny. I ran it through at the p trap and flushed the line with the water attachment shown in the article. Problem solved.
as a retired plumber, I would have mentioned that if you are clearing a blocked drain through a cleanout, if it doesn’t spill out when you open it…you’re probably in the wrong place also you said if your pipe is old the drain ball might cause a leak, while the truth is, NO drain system is designed to hold pressure…NONE!!! And if there is a fixture (vent) between the drain ball and the clog…well it ain’t purty! IMO never a good 1st option
Drop hook cable helps on getting the cable down the drain; some older houses will have drum traps, not P-traps, which a cable won’t go through; be careful about using a drain snake on old tubs, the cable might pull the over-flow pipe out (inside the wall). On bathroom clogs, if the water is still draining slowly, bleach will almost always clear the pipes just be sure to run water afterwards (to clear the bleach from the pipes). With old plumbing it is always wise to do as little as possible.
I used to rent sewer snakes and the two funniest stories: one guy had the snake go UP the vent, and realized his mistake when he heard it clunking against his siding; the other was a guy clearing his outside lateral of roots and realized why he had roots – a break in the pipe let the snake auger up & out of the ground! FYI powered sewer snakes were the most dangerous tools we had – or at least, people gave them the least respect. One guy lost his eye, several had their hands wrapped in the cable, one person nearly lost a toe.
At 4:18, why would Richard say “If the original plumber cared at all about us…” and then introduce an admittedly (4:25) non-code compliant method? IPC and UPC do NOT allow a double combo in this configuration because it can cause the trap to be siphoned (vent connection below the trap weir). The proper alternative, instead of the combo, would have been a cleanout above or below the double sanitary tee.
Unfortunately many house with double sink were rough in with a simple 4 way fitting . Making cleaning a drain blockage very hard. Those water bladder clog buster should be used carefully. My friend used the bladder . Fill up the drain pipe with water . Water went up the vent pipe instead of busting the clog. When he take off the bladder . All that water in the vent pipe come draining on his floor . Yeah be careful !!!!!!!
Basically in my opinion not that I’m a plumber I don’t know too much about drains but I do know this. It seems to me that drains the pipe flows from in the house to outside of the house and that’s where the water. Then you got to hook up for the water outside so you can have water run through your house and then you have all the pipes. Sometimes you’ll need a snake a hose or sometimes you’ll have to do other things to get a clog out of a drain I know that much.
Great Old House Plumbing article. The Plumber is terrific and offers pragamatic solutions to Clogged piping. I offer a “story”. Some years ago, while sitting at my basement desk, with a sewer pipe overhead, I smelt “something” Foul. I checked the waste line run that was overhead and would flow to the opther side of the basement and out the exterior of my house to a Septic tajnk (That’s another Story altogether). The bottom of the waste line was OK, BUT when I ran over the Top of the wasteline, I sensed the caste iron waste line was Cracked !! It split open like a tin can. That Wasteline flows from a bathroom in the front of the house (in a Master Bedroom). That bathroom sink, toilet and Shower all seemed to flow OK. Where I am in NY (Westchester County near the CT Border) we have “hard” water. I presume that the hard water aided in rotting the pipe mixed with waste sitting in the pipe and finally Cracking it open!! An Emergency Fix ( many plumbers were reluctant to come for this) cost me $1K !! to replace perhaps 20 feet of caste iron waste line pipe. Now, I use a Anti-bacterial product periodically to combat Organic build up a few times per year.
Good job guys. It has been a blast following along with this project and with you guys from almost the beginning. I bet you could drop in an “L” of plywood and rebuild those blown out corners. might not be worth the work though, just use a little extra concrete and you have already saved a ton of money by digging it yourselves. I venture to say probably better than a lot of subcontractors would do.
Information that needs to be shared. With the use of body wash products, so-called flushable wipes, we need to pay attention, things have changed. Call the family together, talk about it, liquid drain cleaner is forbidden, use vinegar and baking soda and care…maintain, make it somebody’s job. Educate. Visiting niece with flowing black hair…she had no idea that there was a drain, much less that she was clogging it. Bought her a screen which she brings along in a basket with all her beauty shower products.
While cleaning the drain in the shower, I dropped the inspection cap in the drain. Since then, the following day my bathroom smells horrible. I have had three plumbing companies, the last one with a camera, which he looked down the shower drain and all was clean and clear. However, he did not look in the bath tub or sink pipes which are higher than the shower drain pipe. I’m wondering if this little hard plastic top is somehow jammed somewhere between these three pipes causing the smell. Thanks in advance
I’ve used the drain bladders with good success with bathroom pipes but my kitchen sink has a metal piece that partially blocks the drain opening. This prevents the insertion of a bladder down the drain. Trying to figure out a different way to flush out the drain. I’m guessing it’s just an accumulation of coffee grounds. A plunger partially clears it temporarily.
So, the stopper in my sink was attached to the metal arm of the up and down thingy that allowed you to hold water in the sink. Had to find that out on UTube. Had to get under the sink, enclosed in a cabinet, not easy, and unscrew the mechanism to free up the stopper from the arm. Seems it can just sit in top of the lever or the lever can go through the hole in the stopper. This was a Kohler faucet. The problem was that it was stopped up and any drain opening stuff would hardly go past the stopper. Now, I can take the stopper out and clean the whole thing, including the bottom, which gets a lot of gunk on it.
With the toilet plunger, when you put the plunger into the toilet bowl, you allow air into the plunger– the air will just compress as you plunge. A better method of plunging a toilet is to insert the rubber plunger into the water, then invert the rubber plunger so it fills up with water (water doesn’t compress). You can then plunge successfully.
Question: Why not go 1.25 in or 1.5 in from a sink or any drain to the wall. When you get to the wall switch to 2 inch pipe all the way to the exit. You’ve got 3.5 inches in a studded wall. If whatever you’ve put down the drain makes it through the 1.5 in, there should be far fewer problems with the 2 in pipe.
Best way for a kitchen sink clog is to run water while you cable with a 1/4 inch cable. To do that you get a spare waste arm that is after the j-bend and cut a notch opening on top of the waste arm big enough to fit your cable. Multitool works best to make a notch. Reconnect all the tubular and run a little bit of hot water while cabling through the notch. When you get the blockage you’ll see the water coming out of the notch go down and not overflow anymore. #Roto Rooter
What a great article! Thank you! What do you think about tools I’ve seen for clearing toilet clogs that have in essence a bike tire pump that pressurizes a chamber in the tool (some even have a pressure gauge) – then there’s a rubber seal that goes into the toilet, followed by a release of compressed air. It sounds good to me, because I’m getting old and using an old fashion plunger hurts, so the idea of a tool that you can pressurize without needing much force sounds really good to me. Thoughts?
Most people don’t really have a clue. We have more than 50 years experience with our waste lines. In that period I’ve accumulated all the tools in this article. I’ve even run a garden hose from the roof down the vent pipe. Plumbers EARN their money but, so far, I haven’t had to call them. I hope I haven’t jinxed myself with that comment. 😳
One type of clog (total or restricting) that is not addressed here is one I have every year – a washing machine drain. I can hear the pipe fill up to the machine connection and overflows into the walls and on to the floor. The machine connection and the clean-out are very close in proximity to 90 degree connections. A 25 ft snake into the clean-out returns to show nothing, yet the drain fills up to overflow in a matter of seconds. The end of my snake is bent to scrape the walls, but nothing seems to work without getting a plumbing service to use a motorized snake. A year later the problem returns. We do 4 loads of laundry every 2 weeks (retired couple).
Quick question about using the snake. When it goes past the p trap and enters the main pipe (going down to septic), is there any way to make pressure go up or turn the snake upwards clear a potential clog in the air vent? Richard said they some times go up or down, haven’t tried the snake yet, but starting to think there is a clog in the main pipe blocking air from going up to the air vent. My roof is really high, it’s winter in New England, and I have no easy way of getting up there. Any help would be much appreciated as I’ve tried everything at this point.
My kitchen clogs is after I run 2 gallons of water, i snake it with 25 feet and it still doesn’t unclog, in that case I use drano and it does unclog but every 2 to 2 months it clogs again, no food or anything solid goes through my sink, why you think it happens so quick and why is it after 25 feet? Thanks
any time i have gone to a clog that is slow draining, i use clobber which is sulfuric acid, I made the mistake of not asking the customer if they put anything in the drain ( bleach ) Drano has bleach fumes from it made me lose my breath couldn’t breath eyes watered. always know or ask if anything was put down the drain before using a chemical. for drain cleaning. i will add, try to find out how old the drain pipe is had one time i used it and it ate the pipe and caused it all to go into a crawlspace, had to repipe the whole drain.
Great basic plumbing techniques, however the vertical combination you used is illegal and breaks the vent. Utilizing 2 offset tees would be another correct method. Tees are used only in vertical applications by international plumbing code. Wyes and combinations are used mosty horizontal applications. However a wye can be used in vertical application where necessary but not combinations.
Unfortunately the inflating rubber bung shown at 7:00 is not referred to as anything other that “this”, so not knowing what it’s called I can’t search for it! Also, it is very strange to refer to a basin (sink) as a ‘lavatory’. UK and US definitions are different. In the UK a lavatory is either a room containing toilets and hand basins or the toilet itself, so bear that in mind if you’re an American in the UK and asking for a lavatory to wash your hands in!
In regards to the toilet and preventing clogs. Keep a bottle of dishwashing liquid (DL) in the bathroom. Now, BEFORE you “drop that duce” squeeze a liberal amount of DL into the toilet bowl. Since DL is heavier than water, it will settle at the bottom, which is important. DL (Dawn is best) is viscus and slippery, so when you flush, the DL will provide a slippery path for the crap to flow, preventing a clog! Believe me this works, especially when you know your going to be on the throne for a while. BTW, don’t be afraid to add additional DL to the mix after your business is done prior to flushing. Let’s face it, these modern low-flow toilets are a joke, and clog easily.
Hmmm, ive never understood why why and always kinda wondered why toilets are designed the way they are. Like, whyy do toilets have a “drain pipe” that starts to go downward a little bit and then comes back up before heading back down.. Like, at the 0:30 second timestamp of the article, you can see that when its initially flushed, it goes down a tiny bit and then all of a sudden shoots upwards at like roughly a 45* angle for 3-5″ and and then shoots down again. Also, there’s a slight little “turn” in the middle after it starts going down. I don’t understand that, either. I meannn, i know there are probably good reasonings for them to be designed the way they are, i just don’t understand why, lol.
I had a clog in my a/c drain that I kept babysitting with a drain cleaner but it would not clear. After an extremely humid spell it got so bad that it flooded the floors. The a/c man couldn’t get it out and eventually had to cut out a straight section of pvc. What he found was that a rat snake got in and, since they don’t turn around, died in there. My fault…I had taken off the cap of the clean out and dropped it, lost it, and did not put one back. Looked like a good hole to the snake.
The one thing I wanted is the only thing he neglected. Just as the sink and the tub drains have an overflow, a low flush toilet has a similar hole as a flush assist. The cutaway toilet he was using had one, though he totally ignored it. Using a plunger on such a toilet is almost a waste of time and effort, as much of the plunging action is robbed by that flush assist hole. Even so, it will not cause any water to come back at you, unlike the sink and tub, which is likely why he did not mention it. If we had a way to temporarily plug the flush assist hole, the plunger would have a far greater chance of success on a low flush toilet. But how to plug it?
I really admire your articles and I think your articles would do really great in the middle east and in Egypt especially, so my proposal to you is this, I wanna start translating these articles to Arabic and reposting them, in your same website/page or a separate one. I am entitled to a chance. The U.S. Labor Department, the IRS, the SBA, and U.S. Immigration lawyers all say it is legal for a U.S. company (or any U.S. employer) to hire foreigners living outside of the U.S. as remote or telecommute workers. The U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) Says that Non-U.S Citizen Employees Working Outside the U.S. Need Not Be Included in OWBPA Disclosures. That means, according to the EEOC, Non-U.S Citizens can work for an American company, I’d consider that as an equal employment opportunity for everyone on this earth, as everyone deserves a chance even once in their life time to work with and for America. The greatest country on earth. So I can work for an American company/entity/business and I don’t require a work visa or sponsorship and I’m allowed to do so, as I am not disallowed of working in the US, if you think it’s illegal to hire someone outside the US, no it’s not as I’d only require sponsorship if I were to work inside the US, but this is a remote job which I’ll be doing online, according to the US law and constitution it’s legal and in my country as well, it is. I have a lot of experience in software, website and app testing and I can prove it, I have done it remotely for many companies and different websites for over 4 years.
Is that a double fixture fitting? I hope so Richard. I better not find out you’re putting double ys in a back to back. If so my heart will be broken. As for the rest, I wouldnt bother with the water hose balloon. I’ve yet to encounter a situation where that worked. Those things are rarely able to out much force in the line. As for using chemicals, be careful because if you have a stopped up drain and you pour a bunch of drano in there, the plumber may not be willing to put his cable in there. I’ve been known to use clobber from time to time but only in very specific situations. Technically you’re not supposed to put any chemicals in a drain that’s completely clogged. Regardless of what the commercials show, I’d bet if you read the directions it’ll say to use on slow drains only
I love it when a customer tells me I watched a youtube article. Its seems obvious to me this guy doesn’t know to much about clogged tubs and lavatory sinks, Because 99% of the time it can be easily done by anybody. And he didn’t even mention it. With the exception of a toilet you would have no need of a plunger. I will stop there I’m sure the guy done his best for the time slot, And he is probably the boss and hasn’t done plumbing in years…
NOT a True Headline! In Fact this is a Complete LIE!!! Headline states “How to unclog ANY drain”. Yeah,.. 4 drains that ONLY go so far as the Pee trap!! And you ONLY address that issue. Drains can be Very Long., Very Lengthy, and entitle Multiple pipes. IE,.. washing machines have drains, (not addressed) but your plumbing pipes can go on for Yards before they get clogged. Segment should have been titled “How to unclog a Pee Trap”. NOT “ANY Clog!! And WTF is with the Depends diapers merchandise!!???
This was always a great show and many people learned a lot, but Kevin O’Connor had to be the biggest dip s*#t on that show. In another episodes he was clumsy and ill informed and was beyond an amateur. He once took a hammer to a recently drying concrete counter top to see if it was setup by then. WOW !