Enzyme-based drain cleaners are eco-friendly solutions that use bacteria or enzymes to break down organic waste from clogged drains. These enzymes target specific types of organic matter, digesting them into smaller forms. They break down complex organic compounds into simpler forms, making it easier to clean and remove buildup. They also help prevent clogs in drains and pipes by breaking down substances causing blockages.
Lenzyme should be used daily for up to 10 days to eliminate slow drains and increase drainage. The enzyme bacteria break down the blockage and increase drainage. Drain cleaners are mixtures of dehydrated compounds activated by water, typically 3-4 parts acidic compounds to 1-2 parts alkali. They are highly effective at clearing partial blockages and keeping septic tanks maintained without chemicals.
Earth Enzymes is a high-performance drain opener that clears and maintains free-flowing drains, clogged septic tanks, and cesspools. These eco-friendly products contain bacteria and enzymes that break down organic materials like hair, grease, and food particles that cause blockages. They work slower than chemical drain cleaners but are effective in clearing clogged drains and preventing clogs.
| Article | Description | Site |
|---|---|---|
| What Is An Enzyme Drain Cleaner & How Do You Use It? | The process is initiated by the production of enzymes, or, in other words, bacteria, which feed on the organic particles present within the drains. The aforementioned particles pertain to strands of… | plumbers911.com |
| Clear Slow Drain With Enzyme Drain Cleaner – TLC Plumbing | It is recommended that Lenzyme be administered on a daily basis for a period of up to ten days in order to facilitate the elimination of the slow drain. The enzyme bacteria will facilitate the breakdown of the obstruction and enhance the drainage process. | www.tlcplumbing.com |
| How can an enzyme waste removal product help in … | In the event that the apparatus does not function as intended immediately, it is to be expected that a certain quantity of water will gradually drain from the bowl. This will facilitate the loosening of the obstruction. It is recommended that additional water be added to the… | www.quora.com |
📹 How To Fix A Saturated Septic Leach Field
A septic leach field, or drain field is a critical component of a septic system. It allows wastewater from the septic tank to flow into the …
Do enzyme drain cleaners actually work?
When it comes down to it, the short answer is yes. Enzyme drain cleaners are effective — but only to a certain extent. These drain cleaners work uniquely, in that they contain living organisms that feed on organic materials such as food scraps.
Since this feeding process is much gentler than if you were to dump a potent chemical drain cleaner into your drain, you can expect enzymatic drain cleaners to work at a much slower pace. This slow process might be inconvenient or frustrating for some homeowners looking for a quick, effective solution.
Enzyme Cleaners Aren’t Best for Tough Clogs. Although enzyme drain cleaners are effective to some degree, it’s important to point out that they aren’t always the best solution. You might want to avoid these cleaners if you’re in search of an immediate fix for large, stubborn drain clogs.
What is the best enzyme cleaner for drains?
One of the most highly recommended enzyme-based cleaners is Green Gobbler’s Enzyme Drain Cleaner, which uses a a biodegradable formula. Safe to use in sinks, tubs, showers and toilets, Green Gobbler can clear common culprits of drain clogs, including hair, soap scum and other organic material. So stop fussing with chemical drain cleaners and give an enzyme drain cleaner a try.
Is vinegar better than enzyme cleaner?
No, vinegar does not count as an enzymatic cleaner. Vinegar is actually an acidic cleaner, as it uses acidity to clean, rather than enzymes. How can I make a homemade enzymatic cleaner?
Enzyme Cleaners Are the Powerful Product You Need to Start Using Right Now—Here’s How.
Enzyme cleaners are the secret stain-removing superpower your laundry, upholstery, and carpeting have been waiting for.
These bio-powered cleaners excel at removing organic stains from things like vomit, pet urine, and mud, and they can be easily found at most grocery stores. Here’s what you need to know.
Do enzyme drain cleaners dissolve hair?
On the other hand, enzymatic drain cleaners which have been touted as a safer alternative, have a very negligible impact on hair. These cleaners don’t exactly ‘dissolve’ hair; rather they break down hair via enzymatic or bacterial action into smaller particles that can be more easily flushed away. This process, however, takes significant time and may not be suitable for severe clogs.
- Chemical cleaners: Variable effectiveness, but environmentally harmful
- Enzymatic cleaners: Very slow, but less harmful to the environment
In essence, if you are dealing with a serious hair clog situation in your drains, manual removal or professional help might be the most effective solution. Drain cleaners can at best serve as a temporary solution, but their effectiveness on hair is neither fully assured nor risk-free.
Do enzyme sticks for drains work?
Yes they work. Restaurants use them to control drain flies as the enzyme cleaners break down the food residue and grease that inevitably slips through. Drain flies use this as food source so breaking it down renders it useless to the flies.
What are the disadvantages of enzymatic cleaners?
Disadvantages of Enzymatic Cleaners. Even though enzymatic cleaners are a safer option, it is a drain cleaning service method with many disadvantages worth mentioning. These cleaners are less powerful and faster than chemical cleaners. Due to their composition and operation process, they struggle to deal with mineral deposits and grease clogs. In addition, they take longer to work since a bacterial process takes longer to break down the organic matter than a chemical process. Therefore, when using these cleaners, you must leave them for a few hours before flushing the drainage. Also, enzymatic cleaners have a relatively shorter shelf life because they have active biological agents. Consequently, they are not commonly stocked in many stores as most store owners prefer the longevity of chemical cleaners.
The health of your pipes and drainage system is crucial to the functionality of your house. Therefore, ensuring that the products you use are safe is advisable. Contact us at bluefrog Plumbing + Drain of San Antonio for information on the best enzymatic cleaners in the market. We are ready to serve your drain cleaning needs.
How do enzymes clean drains?
What Are Enzymatic Drain Cleaners?. Unlike traditional chemical cleaners, enzymatic drain cleaners contain bacterial cultures and enzymes that dissolve organic matter like food particles, mold, hair, and skin cells. The bacteria in enzymatic cleaners break down organic waste and populate your drains/pipes with other cultures of healthy bacteria. Because they do not use caustic chemicals, enzymatic drain cleaners are better for your pipes and overall health.
Are Chemical Cleaners Bad?. Chemical cleaners prove very effective, but they have some serious downsides. Manufacturers make three primary types of chemical drain cleaners:
- Caustic cleaners: Caustic cleaners typically use either potash or lye, both of which produce heat to break down organic waste.
- Oxidizing cleaners: Oxidizing cleaners use substances like bleach and nitrates to create an oxidation reaction. Heat and pressure from the chemical reaction dislodge waste build-up.
- Acid cleaners: Acid cleaners use corrosive materials like sulfuric or hydrochloric acids that eat through all kinds of substances in your clogged drains and pipes. These cleaners are extremely strong, so professionals are typically the only ones that use them.
How long do you leave enzyme cleaner in the drain?
Between 8-24 hours On average, it takes between 8-24 hours for enzyme drain cleaners to clear a clogged drain. This is another reason why enzyme drain cleaners are best used for drain maintenance in a commercial setting.’);))();(function()(window. jsl. dh(‘0fArZ_3iBY2ci-gPz7yI0Qs__29′,’
What is the best chemical to unblock drains?
What Chemicals Can Be Used To Unblock Drains?Baking Soda and Vinegar. Baking soda and vinegar has been a home remedy for unclogging drains for many years. … Hydrochloric Acid. … Caustic Soda. … Sulfuric Acid. … Call a Professional.
Blocked drains are never pleasant because they can lead to flooding, foul smells and leaking pipework if not resolved quickly.
Whilst there are various home remedies for blocked drains, such as baking soda and vinegar or boiling water, they are usually only good for clearing minor blockages and you’ll probably need something more substantial if you have too much debris causing a blockage in your pipes.
Chemical drain cleaners can be used for clearing the drains of showers, toilets, kitchen sinks and bathroom basins. All the chemicals have some level of acidity for dissolving debris. It is up to you to determine which one is best for your needs.
Do plumbers recommend Sani Sticks?
Yes, using Sani Sticks regularly can help prevent clogs from forming in your pipes. By breaking down hair, grease, and other debris that can cause clogs, they help keep your drains free-flowing and prevent the need for costly and inconvenient plumbing repairs.
Sani Sticks are made from all-natural, non-toxic ingredients and are safe for the environment. They are also packaged in recyclable materials, making them a great choice for eco-conscious consumers.
In conclusion, Sani Sticks are an effective and easy-to-use solution for keeping your drains clean and odor-free. By using them regularly, you can prevent clogs and avoid the need for expensive plumbing repairs. They are safe for all types of pipes and are environmentally friendly, making them a great choice for anyone looking for a hassle-free way to maintain their plumbing system.
Is vinegar an enzymatic cleaner?
Enzymatic Cleaners – What They Are?. Since each enzyme is highly specific, manufacturers like to blend them into mixtures so that these cleaners can have a broad range of useful effects. They can also incorporate some of these enzymes into traditionally chemical-based cleaners for maximum effectiveness. Household cleaners such as vinegar, lemon, and baking soda are not enzymatic cleaners. However, you can prepare a weak enzyme cleaner at home in Australia by adding some yeast, brown sugar and lemon scraps into some water.
You should always check the labels of commercial cleaners, even in Brisbane and Adelaide stores, to see whether they are truly enzyme-based. Doing this also helps you to confirm what type of soil the cleaner is effective against.
Common Applications of Enzymatic Cleaners in the Average Household. You might be wondering if enzyme-cleaners can be used on surfaces other than fabrics. Here are some other uses for such cleaners around the house:
📹 Snaking vs. Hydrojetting
#rodent #rodentstoppers #rodentremoval Reach out anytime for an estimate: 1-866-252-3241 Email …
I have used this product in my septic system in one of my houses. This product is absolutely awesome. It save me thousands and thousands of dollars. I recently sold that house and had the septic system inspected. The company couldn’t believe how well it’s operating being that the septic system is over 30 years old.
The process is cut short when you add the cleaner directly into the line leading to the leach field. This method is far better because pouring it into the toilet or the septic tank will dilute the cleaner’s strength and that will slow down the results. The key is to pour undiluted cleaner into the line that takes the cleaner right to the problem area. This is done by removing the secondary septic tank cover, pulling out the filter, and using a garden hose with a funnel. After that, be sure to pour a few gallons in to wash the cleaner to the leach field. Another way that would be even better is to locate the distribution box, if you can, and pour the cleaner and water directly into that.
Great vid, TY! As a drain cleaner, I avoid jetting in a home. With a blockage like this I would use a blow bag and cable. Cabling to cut roots and blow bag to get the soft blockage to go out. And not all over me ( !, LoL) and the customer’s house. A “blow bag” is a balloon like device used with a garden hose. It has a small hole that jets water forward while expanding to seal the pipe off and directing water forward and away from the clean-out. And you/inside home. Jetting is great and defiantly has it’s place. Outdoors or in easily cleaned, industrial settings. But personally, I would avoid using in say a kitchen, bathroom or finished cellar. For roots, you would need a seriously high powered jet where a cutter at the end of a cable would be more efficient. But say a car wash or the like. Jetting is by far the superior choice.
35 years of experience here, licensed plumber for over 20 years, plumbing Supervisor over a very large school district. I completely agree with the benefits of jetting, however it is not always applicable or advisable in many circumstances. You could easily flood the area with the water you are introducing. In such cases the augering first to clear most of the standing water to reduce the chances of flooding then follow-up with the jetting and camera to identify other problematic issues.
Master plumber note to follow is do not use a jetter on old piping such as cast and copper piping 20 plus years old or you could flood the home fast. Snaking and augering drain lines is something worth paying someone that knows what they are doing alot of money and make sure they are insured and license!
Thanks I had what i now know was hydrojetting done on my sewer line yesterday. I had initially started to clear the backed up debris myself before deciding I needed the pros. The guy that came to my house was here a max 20 mins and told me that the stuff i had already removed (and bagged for disposal) was thrown back down the line and cleared away. I presumed the material would be removed at the property and not sent off on normal sewer path. It was expensive but it’s done now and I’m delighted. Will consider hiring equipment if it happens again.
Snaking (rodoong) is for hard stoppages such as rags and roots and hair with a retrieving head on the cable. Water Jetting is for soft stoppages such as grease, soil, and soap scum build up and as a finishing tool after snaking . Ideally water jetting should be started down stream so the debris will flow downstream as the jetter makes its way upstream. This is not always possible so starting upstream and working the jetter back and forth will help scour the lines to restore full flow as originally deigned
Excellent article. We have a chronic issue with our laundry washing machine drain output branch line (1975 construction), and about every 1-2 years we’ve need to have the line reamed with snake since we moved in in 2001. However, it showed no signs of needing the reaming for several years, so this year when it did back up we were about 5 years overdue. The plumbers had some difficulty getting the snake down the line far enough, even after several attempts, and suggested Hydrojetting. Wow! That worked great, and the line cleared on the first run. Very impressive. Thank you for this article! This gave me a much better understanding of the difference between the two methods. We will use Hydrojetting from now on! FYI, the audio Left website cuts out at about 4:35. I see the article is about 8 years old, but still thought you might like to know. Thanks again!! P.S. – Total aggreement with Keena Witt’s comments!! Great article, thumbs up!
I don’t know jack about plumbing…or solving associated problems. …I could figure it out, rent some beat up, 2nd rate equipment, make a big mess and possibly make things worse. Or, I can call the “Twins” (or another reputable company). In a short time, you guys show up and the problem is taken care of. What a relief! With all of the rain this year, the elm tree roots, weeds, flowers…and other plants are growing like crazy. Im sure that they are trying to find a way in! I think that I’ll have the sewer line cleared for sure. It’s a normal routine (to have your sewer line cleared/snaked/jetted)every year or so, here in Colorado. …a lot cheaper than buying new carpet!
And when your done installing the new sewer main pipe in the trench replacing the broken pipe from the tree roots, don’t forget to buy a few bags of water softener salt pellets and dump em’ in the trench around the new pipe where the tree roots were growing and then backfill the trench with dirt. By doing the salt dump method in the areas where the tree roots were growing you are preventing the roots to grow back again inside the pipe because tree roots won’t grow where salt pellets are. The roots will grow away from that area which means they won’t go near your new sewer pipe again resulting in years of solid sound sewer pipe service worry free of future roots breaking in to your pipe again. You gotta be smarter and think smarter than the tree roots……works every time.
Great article for the basic ideas of both techniques, as a first time DIY guy I have a good idea as to what I need to pick up from my local supply store and think this article is a great way of showing others like myself ‘what the deal is’. I’m having a water build up in my basement ‘slop sink’ so I plan on hitting up Home Depot for a water bladder and a 50ft snake to clear whatever obstruction is causing the block. Fortunately the water DOES drain itself slowly albeit not good, but better than a complete stoppage. Thanks for the information, this article was very helpful to me! =)
Roots in a 2″ line have a distinct feel. The cable slowly burrows in increasing the likelihood of getting hung up with that machine. As soon as I feel that, I pull back. Maybe make another run at it. But if I feel the cable not making progress and smell the roots coming back through the cleanout, I generally stop and and give the option to replace the line or stop and try to run a larger cable. This is usually only a temporary fix. A 2″ drain should not have roots in it. No guarantee. The roots will grow back and they will continue to have the problem.
The problem is getting a plumber to come on a Sunday when you have an emergency sewer clogged-up. I tried that yesterday and not one open-24 hours-a-day plumbing business return my call. I had to rent the machine from Home Depot and do it myself. I did a fantastic job, with $300.00 of emergency funds (To the lucky plumber- me) to take my wife out. It was my first time doing it and I did it perusal two YouTube articles. It was done within 30 minutes. I didn’t think it was that easy.
First off, you wouldn’t use a puny drill snake on a line with roots in it, get a Spartan 100 machine to clear the kitchen drain. Also odds are against roots in your 2″ line, unless it leaves the house separate from the main sewer. Jetting can clear roots with the right head on the jetter. As the thieves at rescue rooter used to say “cable is able, but jetter is better”.
First I can tell the difference between you two from your belts, lol. And good all around demonstration. I just did the auger method myself on a bathtub a couple weeks ago because I HAVE one of those ( 30 bucks ) and works if you get it down to the clog on a drill and work it back and forth. Years ago my main line in the yard had roots in it ( Old Orangeburg pipe ) once that happens, anything is temporary as roots will continue to go to the water. Dug it up and replaced it.
Snakes don’t really clean pipes. They can restore flow, usually, and break up soft clogs. But the pipe will not be clean. Also, because the demonstration pipe is clear and smooth, the snake will not be encountering any other issues. Now, if this were a sewer pipe in a residential location, you could have scale, FOG, breaks, bellies, etc. that will make the job more difficult. But I love seeing how effective the hydro-jetter is at shmashing that blockage and leaving a clean pipe.
Right, now try this on REAL pipes in your home, old home and this is probably a disaster waiting to happen. Old homes use cast iron pipes and sometimes the line pipes are brittle / rusted – these electric snakes can cause a disaster on such pipes and you might end up with very expensive repairs in the 5 figures, that KNOCKING inside the pipes can’t be good. It might be no big deal on the PVC pipes, but I would not use that method on old cast iron pipes, I’ve heard horror stories there. Same for hydrojetting, I know someone who did that, and it cost her $25,000 in repairs from burst pipes due to the pressure. You can be sure that all the piping in old buildings and old homes are just disasters waiting to happen, banging and unusual pressure inside those pipes will only make matters worse. Also a lot of people previous to using those methods have used Draino and other garbage products so over the years this kind of shit made the pipes even worse. I would use electrical snaking on PVC pipes, I would not use them on cast iron or old home piping that is in bad shape.
Nice demonstration, but you know as well as I do and I am a plumber you need to have water running while you’re rodding. To move the debris along. I do like the water jet four main lines. But in a house kitchen train, bathroom drain too much chance of water splashing back and causing damage. Any suggestions are welcome
poor comparison. When you have a blockage you are also going to have water in the line which will remove debris once the blockage is broken.. The hydro jet technically was developed for municipal use in jet trucks for sewer lines . The jet hose would go in to the manhole from the side past the blockage, not from the other side where the water is backed up. The water jets shooting back toward the hose is meant to propel the hose forward. Once the jet stream shooting forward hits the blockage and breaks it up the water behind it will now flow pushing debris downstream. Once the flow decreases in the line then the jet hose is retrieved as it comes back with the water on it further cleans the line back to the manhole in the direction of flow.
Is that a 4″ pipe? Paper products and other solids are usually found in toilets drain lines and floor drains. You don’t usually see roots or paper in a sink drain line which is what the general drill snake you used is for. Put the same blockage in the 4 ” pipe in front and use a 1/2″ snake with a proper tip like a double blade on it and proper machine to demonstrate how it will look when done properly.
Your running a sink line cable down a main line. Running dry, no water to flush out the line. A sink cable hitting roots is a disaster waiting to happen. It’s not big enough. Run a proper size cable and cutter with water and problem gone. There area few places that a jetter is better but this is a horrible example. Shame on you, twice the BS.
This was an interesting approach to an informative article the twins are apparently some type of professionals who employed either an actor or third professional to demonstrate while they explained The process. How many plumbers does it take to clear a sewer line ? Only one But you’ll need 3 for an effective demonstration.
maybe its just my confuser but the last half of the article the audio dropped out. restarting article audio is fine but 3 times the last half of article the audio is out. Beyond that though I have a real question. Running anything down a drain line especially old drains has some degree of risk that comes with it and there is a degree of skill in having the experience to know when you need to push hard or be very gentle. plus in knowing where your snake is going so that it does not take a wrong turn and come out a vent or another sink etc… So my question is how do those risks to old pipes etc compare to conventional snakes? and can the pressure be varied ? And how does it compare “feel” wise on those tricky runs comparatively ? Generally it looks like a good tool to add to a truck, there are many lines I run that are just full of gunk for which this tool looks perfect for…. Other more solid clogs, roots, washrags, anything that needs to be pulled back out seems conventional snakes would still be first tool to use… Every job is different and every job has its own best tool.
Thanks. Just had my kitchen drain sink cabled today (about 30 feet). May call for hydro jet in a day or two. The cast iron pipes are about 60 years old, with probably some corrosion. Will hydro-jetting collapse old cast iron pipes under my basement floor? (Replacing old cast iron with PVC pipes may cost $10,000 to $15,000 – dig up floor and old pipes – carry away debris – fill in and cement over).
We just hydro jetted the washing machine drain as it was clogged. Its in the garage and leads to main sewer. Our hydro jetter is about 50 feet long, we worked the jetter in and out of the pipe many many times. There was lots of black water back flowing out of the drain when we pulled the jetter out each time (when the jetter tip was getting to within about 2 feet of the drain opening). Does that black water mean we have some awful mess in the pipes – like broken drain lines?
Septic field – Hydrojetting may clear the lines, but the real problem might be that the gravel is gunked full. Our septic field is 46 years old. How can I find out if the gravel is clogged? If I dig, or rent an excavator, will that help me see? $6900 Canadian ($5550 US) for hydrojetting (5 leaching pipes x 60′ each). How many years will I get for $6900? Should I be putting that money into a new septic system? (~$30,000) In this article we didn’t see a vacuum sucking the results of the hydrojet backwards. Even with a vacuum sucking at the head of each pipe, surely some of the material broken up by the hydrojet will get pushed through the pipe’s perforations. The volume of space between gravel is (I presume) greater than the volume of the pipe, but still, if the gravel is not already clogged, this will add more gunk to clog it. Ground-Penetrating Radar can find the location of septic fields. Is there any way to see if the gravel is clogged?
That wasn’t a very good demonstration. 1/4 cable going through all that, cmon it’s not really what you run into . Those cables are for tubs dirty arm kitchen and p/Trap lavatory. That kinda stuff normally you’d go half blade if any with a 1/2 in cable be done with it. Jetting a residential home risky too risky
Should really be using a dedicated forward facing jetter head when jetting down the pipe. 4 rear jets and 1 forward jet is pushing a lot of water against the grade of the pipe. It’s appropriate if your jetting up the line but down the line is just asking for a mess. 15 years in the industry. Everything from mainline sewers, storms sewers, industrial, parking garages
Okay, if that thing is shooting 12 gallons of water per minute into a clogged pipe… won’t I get 12 gallons a minute in my house until it breaks through? I love the idea and it makes me want clear pipes in my house but shooting water into a backed up pipe seems unwise. Or is this a tool for line cleaning? I know this article is almost 6 years old but thought I’d try and see if you respond. I really enjoyed perusal it work btw.
city came water flushed outside…….One pro plumber came snaked pipes for awhile retrieved pile of bay wipes (baby wipe tenant moved out before clog).. ..gave up was paid $189. he and partner left pipes still clogged…….next pro came after several hours of snaking…still clogged he left… left sewer back up in cellar…3 days later same company came and worker snaked more baby wipes out….. flush water started flowing cost was $1000…. week later clogged again.. …now pipe still clogged …oh well …..no one used hydro flush yet…some charge $500 for flush..any advice?
You didn’t use the same diameter pipes nor joints so it didn’t appear to be truly comparing “apples with apples” as you stated. If I am not mistaken, wouldn’t the smaller pipe create a greater water pressure making it easier TO PUSH through WHERAS w/ THE WIDER PIPE, THE WATER PRESSURE would be more diffused and not work as great?
I removed the toilet in a double wide trailer and there was water clogged but now its just about 1/4 of an inch I’ve snaked and lubricated with dish soap and hot water (not boiling). Do you think if I put the new toilet on and flushed it I’d be good? Like I said I can see water down in the horizontal pipe but it’s barely any,and it’s not coming up the pipe anymore just sitting still where the pipe goes horizontal. Any advice would be VERY VERY appreciated
Our ac unit, in attic (on 3rd floor) constantly is getting clogged. Over the years I have used bleach, vinegar, dishwash, and even a wet vacuum to clean it out. These days if I dont put a liquid cleaner down it, every other day – it clogs up and ac stops – while temp outside reaches 100. Going into the attic to then scoop out the water isnt a nice experience. Have 75 feet of drain pipe, with probably 6 angles at 90 degrees. Dont thinking snaking can do it. So will try to do the hydrojetting. Wish me luck.
Yesterday started with one toilet at bottom was leaking so replace wax ring . This morning noticed toilet right in the next room was clogged I’ve tried plunger but it’s bigger problem since looks like crap coming up in that next room’s shower drain . I know you don’t know how my lines are running this way or that but what can you tell me ? Seems next step is auguer / snake it but not sure where to enter . Have one cleanout I might use but it’s way in the backyard
i always use a cable snake. you always need to have a controlled run or water while snaking. ive seen companies come in with there flushing equipment and tell me that some of the drains were so bad they had to use a snake to clear the drain in order to use the flusher……so why not just use the snake in the first place
THIS IS NOT AN ACURATE EXAMPLE! I followed up a company that used the jetter to clean a line with roots only 6 days later. I used a snake with a proper sized cutting head to remove the roots that were left behind by the jetter. (The jetter only washed the debris off the roots leaving the roots behind) Here the roots here are placed into the pipe. It is my experience that the roots find a penetration point from the exterior of the pipe through a break or bad joint and grows a tendril root that has to be cut.
I have iron ochre that builds up in a drain tile, stopping the flow to my sump basin. I have to flush it out manually once a month. If it’s sits too long moisture shows up along the outside walls. I’m interested in building a perforated pipe system (1/4 in) to leave in the drain tile, so all I have to do is hook up my hose and let it run for 5 mins. Has anyone experienced this iron ochre issue? Any suggestions on a system to put inside the drain tile?
You can’t just do the job once to break up the crap so it flows once again. Do the entire job and run your scope to see if there’s any breakage on the pipes. Too many of these quick fix companies get called out and they do the job for a minute or so and they don’t complete the final task on anything! They need to clean up the pipe entirely with running the snake through a few times, use the hydro jet to flush out the entire system several times if needed and use the cameras to indicate the pipes that should be replaced. A lot of these companies just do a quick fix on a major problem and the homeowner has to call them numerous times. Enough is enough on these extra expenditures when we call you to fix a problem then you need to fix the damn problem, even if it means that we’re going to have to pay extra expenses immediately. When it comes to tree roots then we want to know that a tree must be removed as well!
I’m a 33 year veteran drain cleaner. I see some major problems with your article. 1. Roots grow in through joints. They are not placed in a pipe so they can just be pushed out. They need to be cut out. 2. Why would you use a 1/4″ cable in a 2″ pipe? It’s too small to do a good job and you can’t attach a cutter. A larger cable (my 1/2″ is my go-to cable for this job) with cutters attached would have pushed that stuff and left nothing behind (with a good head of water to flush it out). Also, a cutter would have cut through a real root intrusion. 3. Why didn’t you run water with the cable? Cables break up stoppages, they do not wash debris away. ALWAYS run water to get the debris out of the pipe. 4. I’d like to see you jet a plugged kitchen line from under the sink. 5. You might be right, but I’m questioning 12 gpm through a 1/8″ hose??? At 4000 psi??? Maybe, but I get 1.7 gpm through my 1/4″ hose at 1200 psi.
I LIKE THE WAY THAT YOU RESPOND TO YOUR VIEWERS, WHOM DON’T AGREE WITH YOUR article. YOU DON’T DISPLAY ANY ANIMOSITY TOWARDS THEM! YOU RESPOND TO THEM IN A VERY POLITE AND FRIENDLY MANNER! MY QUESTION TO YOU IS, I’M GOING TO BE HIRING A PLUMBER TO COME UNCLOG MY LAUNDRY DRAIN, I’VE READ HERE, IN SOME OF YOUR VIEWERS COMMENTS, THAT, IT’S A DISASTER WAITING TO HAPPEN, IF HYDROJETTING OR ELECTRIC SNAKING IS USED ON OLDER HOMES, WITH CAST IRON PIPES? MY HOME IS AN OLDER HOME, WITH CAST IRON PIPES! WHEN THE PLUMBER COMES TO UNCLOG THE LAUNDRY DRAIN, SHOULD I LET HIM USE EITHER OF THESE EQUIPMENTS TO UNCLOG THE DRAIN? AND WHAT OTHER EQUIPMENT COULD SAFELY BE USED TO UNCLOG AN OLD CAST IRON DRAIN? I COULD BARELY AFFORD A PLUMBER, MUCH LESS HAVING TO REPLACE BURSTED PIPES, DONE BY THE EXCESSIVE FORCE OF ELECTRIC SNAKING OR HYDROJETTING!!
Jet cleaning is a scam to change $1000. Dollars instead of the standard $100 to $250. They have been cleaning out 6 inch pipes with a power auger since 1933 that scrapes the edges clean. This jeting just recently became popular because they can scam you for $1,000 and then it takes the same time as a power auger. You can take any 3000 psi power washer and buy the hose and tips as shown in another YouTube article.
This was nothing but a joke. Rent a real snake auger to do the job and don’t stop short of going all the way thru the angle fitting and flush with water after and send the real auger thru 2 or 3 times with water flush. I am sure that hydro jet had to also be rented. I am not saying jetting is not good just make it a fair comparison. I do not see you guys as experts based on the article, sorry.
Big thumbs down for this article. Apples to oranges comparison. They are putting an off the shelf home depot DIY àauger against a professional system. In a situation where you have to cut roots that spring end is not going to do anything. They are using an undersized tool for the wrong job and claiming that hydrojet is better. If you had a professional auger system with several sized cutters youd have a fair contest. Even though that auger has a smaller diameter pipe to try to clear the business end is tiny compared to the pipe dimension Maybe a jet system is better than a comparable auger sytem, but this isnt a fair fight .
1/4 inch hand machine is the worst machine there is. going into a sewer ….. that is laughable A 6inch main will have roots 2-3 inches you will break that 1/4 cable off in pipe than charge customer for your mistake. And of course jetting is about 4 times more expensive. Nice job duct taping leaking drum, I would kick you out of my house if you brought that general hand machine,no self respecting drain cleaner would ever do that.
Ya that snake that technician is using isn’t the best equipment for that job! Because u should use a blade are a full set blade are even half of a blade! And hydro jetting could flood out some ones house and cause water damage and using water in a plug line isn’t smart cause ur asking for a flood! I guess if you want to up sale a customer then use the jetter then!
That’s does not demonstrate proper stoppage removal with a cable. You needed a cutter head and you needed to flush the line with water as you ran the line and also after the cable was removed. Both methods have their advantages and the skilled Plumber will know when to use each method. Texas Master Plumber 17794
I’m no professional plumber, but I’ve filmed corporate articles before… you guys seriously didn’t give audio a thought? Always shoot wireless with a backup boom. However, I’m not here for audio. Just how to save my dumbass from sweating while snaking my gfs hair out of the shower for 20min each time.